How to Calculate to Make a Yoke Turtle-neck Sweater Any Size for the Looms

 Calculating for a Yoke Turtle-neck Sweater for the Looms

Link for bee sweater above for a 4T child. 

Many times we like the look of a simple sweater, but would like a different size then the one that was made. Well this post will help you figure out how you can change the size to suit your needs for the gauge, yarn, and loom you have. Don't fear the formula simply plug in your numbers and use a calculator to get your rows and stitches you will need. 

First you will need a swatch.

Knit a panel 20 stitches by 20 rows.

Measure your number of stitches per inch

and your number of rows per inch. 

Measurements

Chest Circumference

Wait Circumference

Hip Circumference 

Length (Pit to Hip)

Arm Length (Pit to Wrist) AL

Arm Circumference (Near Shoulder) AW

Head Circumference HC

Neck Length NL

Enlarge all measurements by 3" for nice fit, 6" for loose fit. 

Formula

Body: 

Chest x SPI = #pegs

Length x RPI = #BR

AW / 2 = #C

#C x RPI= #CR 

Arms:

AL x RPI= #AR

AW x SPI= #Apegs

Neck:

HC x SPI= #NP

NL x RPI= #NR

Yoke: 

#pegs + #Apegs + #Apegs= #TS

#TS  - #NP = #TD

#TD/4=#DPS

#DPS/2=#DPR

#CR/#DPR=#RPS

What all does this means above?

#pegs is the total number of pegs you will need for the body. You may need to divide this in half to do a front half of the sweater and a back half of the sweater. 

#BR is the total number of rows for the body. 

#C is the measurement from the chest to neck. 

#CR is the total number of rows for the chest area. 

#AR is the total rows for the sleeve length. 

#Apegs is the total number of pegs you will need for the sleeve. 

#NP is the total number of pegs you will need for the turtle-neck area.

#NR is the total number of rows needed for the neck area, if you want it to fold down double this number. 

#TS is the total number of stitches you will have from front, back, and sleeves. 

#TD is the total number of decreases. 

#DPS is the total number of decreases per section.

#DPR is the number of rows with 2 decreases.

#RPS is the number of rows per set. 

Example of adult size sweater in a solid color.

Swatch in 1/2" gauge with bulky yarn 

4 SPI

6 RPI

Measurements

Women's size 16 to 18 sweater US sizing. 

HC 21.75

Chest 48"-50"

Waist 40"-42"

Hips 50.5"- 52"

AL 19.5"-21"

AW 16.5"-18"

Length 22"-24"

NL 3.5"

Formula

Since the hips are larger than the chest we will use that measurement. Always use the largest between chest, waist, and hips. 

 Body

52 x 4= 208 pegs (104 pegs for front, and 104 for back.) #pegs

24 x 6= 144 rows #BR

18/2= 9" #C

9 x 6= 54 rows #CR

Arms

21 x 6= 126 rows #AR

18 x 4= 72 pegs #Apegs

Turtle-neck

3.5 x 6= 21 (42 rows if you want to fold it down) #NR

21.75 x 4= 87 pegs for the neck #NP

Yoke

208 + 72 + 72=  352 #TS

352-87= 265 #TD

265/4= 66.25 round down to 66 #DPS

66/2= 33 #DPR

54/33= 1.63 round up to 2 #RPS

What all these numbers mean? 

You will use 104 pegs for the front of the sweater and for the back in 2 parts.

You will do 144 rows total for the length of the front and back of the sweater. 

You will have 9" you will be working with on the chest to neck area. 

Which means you will dedicate 54 rows for the yoke area of the front, back, and sleeve area of the sweater when decreasing. 

You will do 126 rows for your sleeves. 

You will need 72 pegs for your sleeves. 

You will do 21 rows for the turtle-neck area or if you want it to fold down 42 rows. 

You will use 87 pegs for the turtle-neck area. 

You will have a total of 352 stitches between your sleeves and body. 

You will have a total of 265 decreases to get down to the number of pegs for your neck. 

You will have 66 decreases to do for each section sleeve, body front, body back, and sleeve.

You will have 33 rows with 2 decreases in each row for each part of the sweater. 

You will do 2 row sets. This is one row knit, and one row with 2 decreases at the ends. 

Lets take a look at this written out. 

Body Front 

Keep in mind when doing the yoke area that you will not have a perfect due to the decimal of not being exactly 2 rows, so when you start to get towards the end you will need to sometimes do more decrease rows to get all your decreases in your number of yoke rows.

Terms

EW CO: E-Wrap Cast On

K: Knit

K2tog: Knit 2 Stitches Together

P: Purl

SL: Slip

SK: Skip

M: Move this is mostly filling in a hole you created by decreasing one in rather than on the very end. It keeps a nice chain to follow when sewing up later.

ST: Stitch

D: Decrease

MBO: Modified Bind Off

EW CO 104 pegs flat

Row 1-30: SL1, (K1, P1, to end), K1 (you can choose to rib or seed stitch and how many rows just remember your total)

Row 31-144: SL1, K103

Row 145: SL1, K103

Row 146: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K98, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 147: SL1, K101

Row 148: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K96, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 149: SL1, K99

Row 150: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K94, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 151: SL1, K97

Row 152: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K92, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 153: SL1, K95

Row 154: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K90, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 155: SL1, K93

Row 156: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K88, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 157: SL1, K91

Row 158: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K86, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 159: SL1, K89

Row 160: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K84, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 161: SL1, K87

Row 162: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K82, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 163: SL1, K85

Row 164: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K80, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 165: SL1, K83

Row 166: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K78, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 167: SL1, K81

Row 168: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K76, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 169: SL1, K79

Row 170: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K74, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 171: SL1, K77

Row 172: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K72, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1  

Row 173: SL1, K75

Row 174: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K70, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 175: SL1, K73

Row 176: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K68, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1 

Row 177: SL1, K71

Row 178: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K66, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 179: SL1, K69

Row 180: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K64, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 181: SL1, K67

Row 182: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K62, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 183: SL1, K65

Row 184: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K60, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 185: SL1, K63

Row 186: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K58, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1  

Row 187: SL1, K61

Row 188: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K56, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 189: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K54, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 190: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K52, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1 

Row 191: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K50, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 192: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K48, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 193: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K46, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 194: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K44, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 195: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K42, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 196: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K40, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 197: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K38, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 198: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K36, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 199: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K34, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Place stitches on stitch holder and repeat this for the back. 

Sleeve

EW CO 72 pegs Flat

Row 1-30: SL1, (K1, P1, to end), K1 (you can choose to rib or seed stitch and how many rows just remember your total)  

Row 31-126: SL1, K71

Row 127: SL1, K71

Row 128: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K65, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 129: SL1, K69

Row 130: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K63, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 131: SL1, K67

Row 132: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K61, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 133: SL1, K65

Row 134: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K59, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 135: SL1, K63

Row 136: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K57, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 137: SL1, K61

Row 138: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K55, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 139: SL1, K59

Row 140: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K53, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 141: SL1, K57

Row 142: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K51, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 143: SL1, K55

Row 144: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K49, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 145: SL1, K53

Row 146: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K47, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 147: SL1, K51

Row 148: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K45, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 149: SL1, K49

Row 150: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K43, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 151: SL1, K47

Row 152: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K41, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 153: SL1, K45

Row 154: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K39, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1  

Row 155: SL1, K43

Row 156: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K37, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 157: SL1, K41

Row 158: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K35, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1 

Row 159: SL1, K39

Row 160: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K33, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 161: SL1, K37

Row 162: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K31, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 163: SL1, K35

Row 164: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K29, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 165: SL1, K33

Row 166: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K27, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 167: SL1, K31

Row 168: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K25, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1  

Row 169: SL1, K29

Row 170: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K23, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 171: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K21, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 172: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K19, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1 

Row 173: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K17, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 174: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K15, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 175: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K13, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 176: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K11, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 177: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K9, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 178: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K7, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 179: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K5, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 180: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K3, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Row 181: SL1, D K2tog MSL, K1, SK1 D K2tog, MST K1

Place stitches on stitch holder and repeat for other sleeve. 

Add all the remaining stitches on stitch holders back to the loom for 87 pegs total you may have 88 stitches that is okay that will make it even to do a rib stitch. Keep in mind right side facing you and wrong side facing the middle of the loom. Also make sure it is sleeve, front, sleeve, and back. 

Neck

Row 1-41: K2, P2

MBO

Sew up sleeves and yoke area and you are done.  

Wiener Dog or Duchshund Pattern On Ravelry

Wiener Dog or Duchshund

Loom Knit Pattern

$2.00

Video tutorial and Written PDF

This pattern uses a 36 peg loom, you use the yarn equivalent to the gauge. 

This is an intermediate pattern. It is done in 3 pieces and yes that means the legs are worked into the body for less parts to sew. 

You will need safety eyes, safety nose, polyfil, yarn for gauge (yardage depends on gauge), crafters needle, and looming hook. If you are using the large gauge 3/4" gauge you will want 2 skeins of say Lions Brand Hometown USA as a gauge for yardage. I personally use a 3/8" gauge loom and the animal ended up being approximately 12" long. So if you are using a larger gauge the animal will be bigger.  

Pattern will be available on Ravelry, Love Knitting, and Cindwood website.  

Any Heel, Any Toe, Any Sock, Any Time, Loom It!!!

Release date for the PDF on Ravelry . Hoping to have the paperback ready on Amazon later next week. Will be available in Ravelry, Cindwood, Kindle, Amazon, and Create Space. 

For the last year and then some, I have been researching and learning about socks. Much of early learning had trial and error like most do, but the more you do, the better you get. In this book it might as well be a dictionary or encyclopedia of socks for the looms. While you can do a literal translation from needles to loom, sometimes it isn't functional, and more effort than it is worth. My goal for this book was to get the look of the needle knit, but the ease for the loom. Some things still were difficult even on the looms, but were included anyway. Please keep this in mind if you are a needle knitter and are looking to learn the loom for socks, these are not literal translations. They are more on average an essence of the techniques.

            In this book I will go over a vast number of things from brands, looms, gauges, yarns, sizing, cheats, swatching, and so much more. I will also go over basic sock styles and include some history on a few of the styles that are in this book. If you are interested in knowing as much as you can about everything socks, then this is the book that has it.

            If you need to know if a certain technique is a skill level you can achieve, I will be including a star rating. One star for beginner, two stars for intermediate beginner, threes stars for intermediate, and four stars for advance. This will help you decide if you can work the technique, or even if you want the challenge of the technique.

            Much of this book has photos and plenty of written instructions, but the wonderful thing about this book is, almost every single thing has a video tutorial for it. This means you get visual help, along with the written. Making this book very helpful for those visual learners who kind of understand written, but need to see it as well. 

            Heels, toes, and socks styles have formulas, this is a concept of plug in measurements and equations, and use a calculator to figure up any size, in any technique or style sock you want. This is nice, in that is doesn't block you from making sizes and using different looms and gauges. 

             I have focused on the Cindwood loom brand for this book, many other brands have versatile looms that you may have to maneuver a little differently to get the same look. This means you will need to keep an open mind as to how you can use the looms you have, to work up the same techniques on the Cindwood looms. I am not an expert on loom brands, I have tried to become more of an expert on the variety of techniques. If you are interested in who you can talk to about brands I have included names in this book along with links to websites to be able to get in touch with these people who can better answer your questions. I have even sought some of these peoples help on being able to put info down in this book so you can have a better idea on other brands you would like to try.

            This covers a general overview of the book, and now it is time to dive in and get started making socks!!! Happy Sock Looming!!!  

 Release date for the PDF on Ravelry . Hoping to have the paperback ready on Amazon later next week. Will be available in Ravelry, Cindwood, Kindle, Amazon, and Create Space. Keep a close eye on postings!!!!

Quick Projects Summer 50% Off Sale on Ravelry

Quick Projects Summer 50% Off Sale on Ravelry

Sale goes until the end of July 2018

 

The New Mini Book for the Summer digital copy with lots of video links included.

Great little bag for small summer items for easy carry. Learn some new techniques, includes video tutorial. 

 The Chic Bonnet is a great quick whip up chemo hat for your loved ones that are going through that hard time with cancer.

 Slip Flops, comfy summer slippers cozy yet cool. Includes video tutorial link.

 Cloche hats for summer to shade your face but give you a sense of style.

 Oh it is that time when lots of babies need little fun items. Bonnets, Bunnies, Bundles!!!

 Here is the simple fast and fun universal hat. Guaranteed to fit any head.

 

Another small mini book that shows in detail videos how to make simple appliqués to add to your projects for that special touch. 

Stretch Yarn Reviews

Stretch Yarn Reviews

 

Silk Effects Alize Diva Stretch Yarn

 

Cost: $2.70 for 1 skein to $6.40 for 2 skeins

Yardage: 438yds

Availability: ebay, etsy, amazon

Weight: fingering

Material: 8% Elastic, 92% Microfiber Acrylic

Texture: Soft and Stretchy

Memory: Great compared to other stretch yarns.

Overview: Hard to get, costly shipping as it usually ships from Russian area of the globe. I think it is well worth it and is a great yarn to work it. I enjoyed it soo much I ordered several colors in this yarn for making socks. When you order more the shipping is usually cheaper. 

 

Socks done with yarn bulking. 

 

 Sock done in a single strand. Ravelry link.

Paton Stretch Sock Review 

Cost:Typically sold in 2 skeins $7.50

Yardage: 239yards

Availability:Online Etsy, Ebay, Amazon less expensive and more accessible than Alize.

Weight Material: Fingering Size 1

Material: 41%Cotton, 39%Wool, 13%Nylon, 7%Elastic

Texture: Little rough but not bad.

Memory:Okay has thin elastic thread.

Overview: Doesn't come in solid colors generally, usually self striped. While it is cheaper and more available in the states it isn't going to hold it's stretch for very long due to the type of elastic thread. I can see it corroding easily and would not suggest drying in the dryer. They wash up okay when put into the wash. Due to the yardage it would take 2 skeins to make a pair of socks. To be honest not a favorite.

  Sock made with the Paton Stretch Sock Yarn along with Video tutorial on how to make it.

 

Cascade Fixation Yarn Review

Cost: $5 to $6 a skein you will need 2 for a pair of socks.

Yardage: 100yds

Availability: ebay, etsy, amazon

Weight: DK

Material: 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex

Texture: Soft and Stretchy

Memory: Seems great before working with it, then isn't so great after knitting with it. 

Overview: Seems springy before working with it, but due to its heavy texturing it doesn't stay as springy after working with it because the stitches don't slide around because of the texture. I find that due to its texture the stitch work doesn't show up as cleanly and so not so much a fan of it. Plus you don't get that much of it in one skein and it is expensive. It also I have been told shrinks a lot after washing it. I haven't tried it yet to know if that is the case with washing. It is very soft though I will give it that. You can get it in faster as you can get it within the US. Oh but you can get solid colors in this yarn that is an option that Paton doesn't have. 

Socks made with the yarn. 

Review for Red Heart Scrubby Yarns, Sparkle, Cotton, and Original Scrubby Yarn

 

So I noticed that Red Heart put out a variety of scrubby yarns, and I figured I would buy them and give them a review. Lets dive into what I found!!

 

Sparkle

 

Cost: $3.50 -$4.50

Yardage: 174yd

Availability: Craft Stores

Weight: 4 worsted

Material: Polyester

Water Hold Amount: 1/3cup

Drying Time: 18 hours

Texture: Itchy

Overview: You get a lot of yardage and it is pretty, it also has stretch to it for easier use. I found it itchy and it mostly a yarn I would use for ornaments and decoration rather than use for wash cloths. 

Cotton

 

Cost: $4-$5

Yardage: 121yd

Availability: craft stores

Weight: 4 worsted

Material: cotton

Water Hold Amount: Little more than 1/4cup

Drying Time:(Edit) longer than 24 hours if humid (if dry less than 24 hours)

Texture: moderately rough

Overview: I liked this one best of all, it can work as a wash cloth and it just the right amount exfoliant. It also would work as a dish towel. It has no give, but at least a moderate amount of yardage. 

 Original

 

Cost: $3.50-$4

Yardage: 92yds

Availability: anywhere

Weight: 4 worsted

Material: polyester

Water Hold Amount: more than a 1/3 cup

Drying Time: 24 hours

Texture: rough

Overview: I think this one was my least favorite. It has no give so watch your tensioning. It is very rough and it is best for dishes and things you need to well scrub. I was very rough on my hands. I didn't think it came with enough yardage either. They at least come in vibrant colors. 

 

If you would like to get the patterns above check out this new mini book of gift patterns on Ravelry!!!

Loom Knit Gift Collection "New Mini Book"

Loom Knit Gift Collection

By

Scarlett Royale

The Loom Muse

This mini book will be available on Ravelry, CinDwood, and Amazon in Kindle and Printed Format. Links will be added as they become available. Digital PDF is $7.  

This is a fun collection for wonderful gifts for friends and family, and heck gift for yourself. This collection uses a lot of 10 stitch techniques when making the wash cloths. The other projects are great like, the insulator for your summer mug with cold water and keeps it cold, and a washable loofah that you can open up and dry out. Many of the patterns have videos to follow with beginning to end, and if not plenty of video examples that can help you achieve the patterns. I used 2 different looms, the 25 peg 3/8” gauge loom and 60 peg 3/8” gauge loom. These are great projects for some scrap yarns and srubby yarns. So have fun and happy looming!!!