Right now I am in the process of testing out my theories on different hat styles and how to make them on virtually any loom you may possess. It will be using basic math skills to figure out how to go about making some basic styles of hats, like...... cloche, beanie, slouch, earflap, newsboy, ski mask, hood, cap, and beret.
So far I have the cloche, earflap, newsboy, slouch, and beret written up and videoed. I still need to go in and refine my ski mask, hood, and cap.
Hoping to have the book ready in a couple of months.
This will be a wonderful book to add to a reference collection that can help you go about making your own patterns using different stitches, and stitch patterns. So be keeping an eye out for this book.
Here are a few images of the hats I have been working on.
The purpose of the 6 rows is to slowly decrease the crown, then drawstring off. The use of flat knit is when those spaces between the decrease are filled in once the hat is taken off the loom and the crown is stretched to set the flat knit. If you don't do the slow decrease this is what the crown ends up looking like.
You will notice the center is smooth yet the area around the center is wavy. So by the process of doing the 6 rows before the draw string, and stretching the stitches out after taking off the loom gets you a very smooth result when placed on the head.
Now if you have stitches in the 90 or more range I would suggest adding an extra row, meaning instead of 2 knit rows after the decrease do 3 or 4 in each section after the decrease. You won't notice the smoothness until you place the hat on the head. Take a look at the video for more clear instructions.
If you would like written instructions please see those below. Also will be adding photo instructions later on.
FGDSBO: Fine Gauge Drawstring Bind Off: It consists of 6
rows.
Row 1: K1 D-> toss bottom loop over, K2 Repeat all the
way around ( this means every 4 peg should be empty.)
Row 2 and 3: K only pegs with stitches
Row 4: K1, K1 D-> toss bottom loop over, K1 Repeat all
the way around (this means every other peg will be empty
Row 5 and 6: K only pegs with stitches
Now to drawstring, send the tail through every other stitch
in round 1 all the way around, then in the next round send the tail through the
stitch left. Drawstring together starting to tug on the inner circle 1st then
the outer.
So many loom knitters are really getting curious about the realm of loom knitting and cables. Well I love to loom knit cables, so if your interested in viewing some tutorials and some patterns to try take a look at the information below. They range from chunky cables, owl cables, cable braids, to heart cables. Also things you can wear on your head, feet, and body!!!
I have always loved looking at needle knitted socks that have the heel, where the stitch design goes to the bottom of the heel. Seems like such a nice fit, and so clean looking. Well I went looking and the one tutorial I found, well looked more complicated than I liked. Wondered if it could be simplified a lot. So off I went, and figured it out.
Here is the video showing to it is done.
Let me break it down as best I can if you are a reading instructions kind of person.
Step 1:
What every loom you are using divide the pegs in half, one half of those pegs will be the heel section.
Step 2:
Use a drawn out foot mold to find out how many pegs you need for your heel.
Step 3:
Then count out the pegs on either side of your heel pegs. This is the amount of rows you will need to do for you heel flap.
Step 4:
Do the number of rows you calculated from step 3 making sure to skip the 1st peg in each row so that it can be slip stitched for the next row. This allows for easy visuals to put back on the pegs later as the gusset.
Step 5: Bind off the number of pegs on 1 side of your heel pegs, finish the row, then bing off the pegs on the other side of the heel pegs. The empty pegs should be the same as your what you had for step 3. (alternative: put the stitches on 2 different stitch holders, start by placing the stitch furthest away from you heel pegs onto the stitch holder 1st, then move in. Also you will need to knit into where your 1st heel peg is to start before placing stitches onto stitch holders)
Step 6: Slowly on each row add your stitch or bind off stitch closest to the heel back on 1 rows at a time, 1 side at a time. This means you should be doing the same number of rows you did to make your heel flap, you are just making the curve to the bottom of the heel.
Step 7: Add your slip stitches from the heel flap back to the empty pegs on both sides of the heel.This will be the gusset section as you work.
Now you are ready to finish your sock.
The "Loom Knit Garter Slip Chain Patterns" is my new book. It introduces
a new way of doing the faux braid. It is quicker and more versatile
than other methods of the faux braid. There is no bind off and cast on
to create this faux braid. So before you think, "Yeah seen it." nope,
take a look at my video of how I do the faux chain. Then I hope you find
the inspiration of all you can do with this technique.
In the new book I provide a basic panel using the garter stitch, slip stitch, and the chain or faux braid in a panel. This book shows you how to take this concept, and customize it, to yourself, or friends and family.
Ten patterns are in the book, but the cost is $8, that is less than a dollar a pattern. The book also contains written, photo, and video instructions. Please see images below to the patterns that are included.
What do you need? 18, 30, 60 peg loom or a universal loom that can adjust to however many pegs you would like. I used these peg looms in 1/2" gauge in CinDwood looms. I also used Lions Brand Wool Ease Thick and Quick Stripes for most of the products, as well as Bernat Softee Chunky and Premier Yarn Spangle.
See my reviews of the yarns below.
So if I have caught your interest on this new technique, here is a sneak peak at my plans to do some unique fun stuff with in the future!!!!
